Wednesday 31 December 2014

Wearable muslin: Vogue 7910

I have a need for black clothes - not my usual preference, but one triggered by an upcoming roller derby tournament.  I'm officiating at The Bont Invitational and I'm so looking forward to it.  My first tournament, several international teams, and my team is going too - Canberra Roller Derby League.  The organisers want to do it properly and so they are asking the officials to really get our uniforms sorted. So, black clothes for me.  I have the shirts - I now need the bottom halves. 

With my resolution to actually use my big fancy sewing machine, I decided that these summer holidays were a great opportunity to make some skirts to wear at the tournament.  Also, to use these as test-runs for future skirt sewing - the skirts would be wearable muslins.  So I went on a pre-Christmas shopping spree for funereal fabric and patterns, and now I have three types of black fabric and two new skirt patterns. 

First cab off the rank: Vogue 7910, view B.  It is the one on the left - with the curved panels on the sides.  I am using a fabric called Carmen Cupro Touch, from Lincraft.  It is a medium weight with a bit of drape and a bit of texture in the weave.  Its a pleasure to sew, but it frays like the devil.

So what did I learn?  That my machine has lots of lovely feet, and lots of lovely stitches.  That the on-board help is, surprisingly, rather good.  That the sound of my machine adjusting tension as it travels over seams makes me happy every time I hear it.  That I had better keep using so that I can really learn how to get the best out of it - I had some issues with the blind hem stitch and with topstitching - all due to newbie-ism.

The pattern is good, I really like the smooth centre front panel.  I didn't get the side panels to sit smoothly - there is puckering at the top of the curve.  That area really needs special care and slow sewing.  The skirt is super comfortable and doesn't ride up, blow up or otherwise misbehave.

Modifications: size ZZ with a 10mm taper at the waist of each side piece.  Back hem about 60mm lower than front hem - length mid-knee.

Future enhancements:
  • Rework the sides to create a straight side seam.  Rather like view C (shown in black) but without the side pockets. 
  • Add decorative top stitching on the seams.
  • Use the pattern as the top layer of a skirt with flounce.
  • Make the version with side panels in a heavyweight knit - something like the Knitwit Monaco.
  • Make the flared version A (in white) in a lightweight, drapey woven fabric.
  • Add a lining (or wear a slip) to protect my skin from the edges of the hems and the seams.
  • Use a light coloured bobbin thread when basting black fabrics - unpicking black stitches from a textured black fabric - really not fun.